When
“Sideways” was released in 2004, the comedy had no way of knowing it would be
nominated for five Oscar’s (with a win for Adapted Screenplay), rake in $72
million at the box office, supercharge wine and tourism in Santa Barbara, boost
Pinot Noir sales, and famously malign Merlot, all in 126 minutes.
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| Me, Paul Giamatti & Alexander Payne at the Sideways 10 Reunion |
On
the 10th anniversary of the film, director Alexander Payne, star Paul Giamatti
and other cast and crew met at the ranch of Jim Clendenen, winemaker of Au Bon Climat whose Pinot Noir was featured in the film, to partake in a
fundraiser and reunion, and Cervins
Central Coast was invited. The $1,000 a plate five-course meal – which
included things like BBQ quail, grilled shrimp, and oak grilled filet mignon
served with wines from the film - raised $100,000 for Direct Relief International, and was held in a tent lined with
stills of the film, with appropriately spectacular views of vineyards.
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| At the dinner these conspicuous dump buckets reminded everyone of the film. |
"Sideways"
created an unexpected economic windfall for Santa Barbara when it originally
hit theatres unlike any other film in recent memory. “I had no idea this would
have happened,” Payne told me. “We were just making a movie. You never think
about things like this nor can you predict it.” Actor Paul Giamatti, who played
the central character Miles, held the same view. “I’ve never been involved with
something like this. It’s gratifying to know that the film has actually had a
measured economic impact on this area.” The film shot for 10 weeks in the
region and three of those days were at The Hitching Post restaurant, which saw an increase in business of 30% after
the film was released. “Our wine sales doubled and restaurant revenue quadrupled,
and we were able to get an air conditioner. Thank you Alexander,” said owner
and one of the chefs for the evening, Frank Ostini.
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| Along Santa Rosa Road |
In the most quoted scene of the film Miles (Giamatti) vehemently proclaims he “won’t drink any fucking Merlot.” He also praised the virtues of Pinot Noir. That registered in the minds of the public, for reasons unknown. Sales of Pinot Noir increased 15%, while Merlot dropped about two percent in sales. The result of a line in a movie? Yes and no. Merlot had been over planted to begin with throughout California (Santa Barbara only produced a small fraction of Merlot at the time and it wasn’t very good) and there was a surplus of inadequate Merlot flooding the market, so the impact was actually minimal. These days the region known as Happy Canyon is producing very good quality Merlot and producers like Grassini Family Vineyards, and Happy Canyon Vineyards are solid bets.
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| Santa Barbara wines go anywhere! |
Of
course tourism to idyllic Santa Barbara wine country greatly increased
following the film. People wanted to drive bucolic Santa Rosa Road, visit the Kalyra Winery tasting room, and eat
steak at The Hitching Post. And they came…and they keep coming. The success of
the film also spawned a Japanese language remake, transporting the location to
Napa rather than Santa Barbara. But Santa Barbara wine country is not merely
the residual “Sideways” phenomenon. The County is home to over 250 wineries strewn
all across the area. For those who want classic wine tasting experiences there
are plenty of wineries to visit first hand in the Santa Ynez and Santa Maria
valley’s set amongst unending rows of vines. In Lompoc the wine ghetto is a collection
of tasting rooms set in an industrial area. The valley hot spot currently, Los Olivos, has 48 tasting rooms packed
into its four-block radius, and in downtown Santa Barbara, just two blocks from
the beach, the Funk Zone is popping
with tasting rooms and there is the Urban Wine Trail. So it doesn’t really matter how or where you want to taste
local wines, there is a spot for everyone – just make your way straight to
Santa Barbara, not sideways.
