Baked Brie |
Montecito doesn’t often open
new restaurants, but the August, 2018 arrival of The Monarch is much
anticipated, and something much needed.
After the raging Thomas Fire
in December 2017 and the January 2018 mudslides, Montecito suffered greatly, as
did all of Santa Barbara.
But fast foreword half a year
and new growth has sprung up in the form of The Monarch, perhaps fittingly
called as the butterfly…well, you know. Embracing the local-ness of our
community the overarching point of the Monarch is a hyper local approach to its
food. Local is a culinary buzzword these days, and hyper-local, even more so.
But what is it? As the words imply, locally sourced ingredients within 100
miles of any given establishment. So what The Monarch has done is actually to
list their purveyors right on their menu so you know where your food, even the
hand made custom plates, comes from. The restaurant is the brain child of
husband and wife chef duo, Phillip Frankland Lee and Margarita Kallas-Lee.
As a starter I had the Gabe’s Baked Brie ($15), a triple-cream
cheese from Stepladder Creamery in Cambria rolled in a light puff pastry (photo
above). The triple cream might sound heavy but it is the reverse of that –
light, delicate, creamy. The Brie sits on a bed of greens - a blend of nine
different herbs and wildflowers giving an earthy savory component to it – and
fresh berries. The whole of this is a terrific combination of savory, sweet and
earthy. One of the reasons I chose this, aside from my love affair with cheese,
is that you don’t often see baked Brie on menus much anymore and it’s a
departure from the norm.
Their
Duck Breast and Leg ($46) is the
entrée I enjoyed with lightly glazed honey, jasmine and coriander. It’s slow
roasted inside their oven, then finished on the grill. Alongside the moist duck
were lovely grilled carrots, potatoes and corn on the cob, sans cob, which is
topped with herb butter. The kernels are small and slightly crunchy after being
shucked off. I don’t eat much corn, but the texture of this was intriguing. An
accompanying salad of fresh tomatoes, micro greens and fresh beans was simple
yet stunning. This is what happens when you use ultra fresh ingredients - you get an explosion of flavor, both subtle
and nuanced as well as obvious and potent. I’m glad The Monarch has landed and
once you visit, you will be too.
1295
Coast Village Rd.
Montecito
Wednesday
– Sunday 5p.m. to closing
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