Strolling Solvang

Though Solvang started in 1911 as a Danish retreat from its native homeland; it’s still ripe with Scandinavian heritage and a new modern sensibility. In the 1950s, far earlier than other themed communities, Solvang sealed its fate by keeping a focus on Danish architecture, food, and style. An easily walkable town, Solvang is home to Mission Santa Ines, a motorcycle museum, bakeries, oak studded parks, shopping and a bunch of other stuff. Extensive information is listed in my national travel book, Santa Barbara & The Central Coast. To some Solvang might seem like Denmark on steroids, but the colorful, charming town is unlike anywhere else; a great escape from the tedious mall architecture that dominates much of America. You’ll notice storks displayed above many of the stores, a traditional symbol of good luck. 

At the Elverhoj



DO

To fully understand Solvang visit the Elverhøj Museum (805/686-1211, http://www.elverhoj.com/) which is a delightful and surprisingly cool place. Not only do they offer table top and kitchen linens and local crafts, they have a comprehensive history of the area with nostalgic photos of the early settlers. Of particular note is the typical Danish kitchen, hand painted in green with stenciled flowers everywhere, pine floors, countertops and tables, it gives an idea of how creative the Danes made their homes, no doubt in an effort to brighten bleak winters. The museum features exhibits of traditional folk art from Denmark like paper cutting, lace making and those famous wooden shoes.



A bird near the hand is worth...



Made popular by the film Sideways, Ostrich Land (805/686-9696, http://www.ostrichlandusa.com/) is 2 miles before you reach Solvang from highway 101. At first glance it seems somewhat prehistoric and you’ll see massive birds in the distance wandering through the shrubs their thin necks sporting small heads and big eyes. They usually keep their distance and only approach when there is food, and yes, you can feed them. You need to hold the food plate firmly in your hand as they attack the plate with a fierce determination. You can also shop for ostrich eggs, ostrich jerky as well as emu eggs and ostrich feathers.

Ballard Canyon is popular with cyclists, runners and anyone in a car. Just off the main street in Solvang, you will pass vineyards, bison and cattle and the road drops you out near Los Olivos. What makes this road so wonderful is the complexity of straight parts, mixed with gentle curves and occasional steep climbs, and of course, the bucolic scenery. Access Ballard Canyon from downtown Solvang heading north on Atterdag. The hill climbs for a while, then drops you down into the canyon. Veer right onto Ballard and take that all the way through and meet up with Highway 246. 

Beautiful Ballard Canyon



The Book Loft (805/688-6010, http://www.bookloftsolvang.com/) sells predominately new books with a small section of used. This 35 year-old two story store has a wall to wall, very well organized selection of authors including locals. The wood stairs creek as you venture upstairs. It has the feel of an old bookstore, not sanitized with fancy shelves, and in fact these shelves were all hand made. They also have a nice selection of antiquarian books and upstairs is the Hans Christian Andersen Museum.

Elna’s Dress Shop (805/688-4525) is the stop for handmade Danish dresses and costumes. If you’re searching for that perfect Danish outfit for a young one, here it is. Aprons, caps and brightly colored simple dresses, some with beautiful lace are off the rack, or they will make one for you. They have a few Danish pieces for young boys as well, and yes, these are pretty darn cute.



You can't go wrong with these cute outfits

DRINK

Presidio Winery (805/693-8585, http://www.presidiowinery.com/) is one of the few wineries in all of the Central Coast to be certified as a biodynamic winery. Owner Doug Braun’s wines are quite good and his style of winemaking is more restrained than most that you’ll taste in the area. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah and late harvest wines are on offer at his storefront on Mission Drive. Winemaker Megan McGrath-Gates produces terrific white wines at Mandolina (805/686-5506, http://www.llwine.com/) a bright and airy tasting room with exposed beams on the ceiling and a copper topped wood bar. The focus is on Italian varietals: Pinot Grigio, Barbera, Dolcetto, and Sangiovese. There’s a delicate touch to the wines due to Megan’s sensibilities, plus she studied in Italy. There are many other wineries within walking distance so check them all out.

Bit O' Denmark at right

EAT

The Bit O’ Denmark (805/688-5426) is the oldest restaurant in Solvang (1929) housed in one of the very first buildings the original settlers built in 1911. Known for their traditional smorgaasbord as well as roasted duck and Monte Cristo sandwiches, they also cook up Danish ham and pork. Their extensive smorgaasbord includes medisterpolse (Danish sausage), frikadeller (meatballs), rodkaal (red cabbage), spegesild (picked herring) and an array of cold salads. The room to the left as you enter is the best, with large curved booths. Ingeborg’s (805/688-5612, http://www.ingeborgs.com/) has been making traditional Danish chocolates for nearly half a century. Over 70 varieties of chocolates are here, handmade on the premises. Grab a seat at one of the six round red barstools and enjoy their ice cream. Root 246 (805/686-8681, http://www.root-246.com/) by contrast is sleek and sophisticated, this newest addition to the dining scene has upped the ante. It looks like it belongs in Hollywood, not in rural Solvang. But that’s part of the evolution of Solvang’s wine country cuisine. Chef Bradley Ogden has started over 10 restaurants and knows how to create exciting food. The menu rotates depending on seasonal ingredients. You’ll find oysters, organic mushroom flatbread and a variety of fish and game dishes. For amazing Italian fare, visit Cecco Ristorante (805/688-8880, http://www.ceccoristorante.com/) and get their wild boar sausage pizza, or for something completely different, try the Risotto Nero; rice is covered with black squid ink, scallops and a lobster broth and highlighted with red onion and heirloom tomato. It’s dark, seductive and amazing. Chef/owner David Cecchini also makes his own wine!

Stroll Solvang, or take a ride

California’s Historic Wineries: Time in a Bottle



Old wine in old bottles

Wine has been in California since 1779, thanks to the Spanish who brought it up from Mexico and planted it at Mission San Gabriel in Southern California. The rest is, as they say, history. Here then are both historic winery buildings, as well as wineries that produce wines from historic vineyards. Yes, you can taste history.

Northern California

Gold has always been integral to the fabric of the Sierra Foothills (El Dorado, Amador and Calaveras counties) and people still flock to Gold Country in search of new discoveries. The main one these days is wine. With the massive influx of people searching for gold in 1849, enterprising men and woman planted vineyards to make wine to sell to the miners. In many instances formerly drinkable water from local rivers became so heavily polluted by mining that cheap wine was preferred, and safer. California’s gold rush faded by 1855 and the throngs of people moved to the larger city of San Francisco. That move caused the demise of the Sierra Foothills wine region, where there were hundreds of wineries. The mass exodus however spawned the growth of another wine region…Napa.



The old walls of the Coloma Winery still stand

One of the first commercial wineries in the entire state, the remains of it, still stands today not far from where gold was discovered in Coloma, north of Placerville. The Coloma Winery was built in 1852, believed to be the very first commercial winery in California. It’s known that the first vintage of their wine, made by Martin Allhoff, was in 1858 which was distributed throughout the region and western Nevada. Sobon Estate is on the site of the first commercial winery in Amador County, dating to 1856, and the original winery, though not functioning, can be toured and it’s free. The old cellars are heavy with must and age, but it’s very cool. (http://www.sobonwine.com/) Just down the road, Deaver Winery in the Shenandoah Valley still has original Mission vines from the late 1800s and they make a port with it. (http://www.deavervineyard.com/). Scott Harvey Winery makes a zinfandel called “1869” from a vineyard planted in, well, 1869, also from Amador County. In Napa, the Charles Krug Winery was built in 1860 (the Mondavi family has owned it since the 1940s).

The Redwood Cellar at Charles Krug

 The original redwood cellar was recently restored to its stunning glory and it’s a state historic landmark. Robert Mondavi (Peter Mondavi’s brother) still presides over the wines at age 97. (http://www.charleskrug.com/)  





Southern California

Grapes were grown throughout the California Mission chain as sacramental wine, but also to produce raisins – easily portable food sold to travelers. The “Mission” grape, a hybrid of different grapes, was high in sugar, low in acid, and produced a thin rustic wine which by most accounts was pretty bad, even though wine and brandy production was a significant source of income for some of the Missions. Mission Santa Barbara established a vineyard and winery between 1824 and 1834. About 1820 San Antonio winery was built in what is now Goleta, just north of the City of Santa Barbara for use as sacramental wine. The lonely historic adobe winery is still standing nearly 200 years later, though on private land. I had the good fortune to visit and see the old barrels and winemaking equipment. 

Santa Cruz Winery - in its heyday

In Santa Barbara in the late 1890s about 200 acres of grapes were planted on Santa Cruz Island, just off the Santa Barbara coast, the remnants still standing on the interior of the island. And while you’re in Santa Barbara, if you drive on De La Vina Street,
well, it used to be covered with vines.

Saucelito Canyon Winery in the Edna Valley in San Luis Obispo County was so remote, when they originally planted vines in 1880, the Feds trying to find it during Prohibition, couldn’t. Good thing too. Great zinfandels come from these true old vines and if you ever get a chance to visit the original homestead (it’s not open to the public but their tasting room is) go! Their “1880” zinfandel is made from grapes grown on original rootstock. It’s a magical place – and it’s where I asked my wife to marry me.



Saucelito Canyon Zinfandel vines on their 1880s rootstock

Gypsy Canyon Winery off Highway 246 near Lompoc has original Mission grapes on site too, and they produce Angelica, a sweet wine made from brandy and Mission grapes from an 1860’s recipe. (http://www.gypsycanyon.com/). In 1919 the first known grapes went into the ground in Monterey County, a remote place called Chalone, where the Chenin Blanc still produces fruit! And around the same time, commercial vineyards were planted in Paso Robles.

Grapevines can be amazingly hardy. (While I was in Spain in 2010, I visited a fat old vine still producing grapes which is 140 years old). So visit some of California’s historic wineries, sip history and be part of that continuum.

Santa Barbara Mission with grapevines (now gone) in front

For more information about California's wine and wineries, take a look at my books, Santa Barbara & The Central Coast, and California Wine Country. 
http://www.amazon.com/Michael-Cervin/e/B004APYU4S