This is merely an overview of what you can expect.
The first commercial grapes were Chenin Blanc planted in
Chalone in 1919 and they are still there. Chalone Vineyards makes Chenin Blanc
from these very vines. In the early 1920s Chardonnay was planted, but like
everywhere else in the country, Prohibition pretty much halted the growth of
the wine industry. It wasn’t until the mid 1980s that serious plantings began
to emerge. The main tasting areas are:
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| The original Chenin Blanc vineyard from 1919, lower center |
River Road in the
Santa Lucia Highlands is that quintessential vineyard experience: you drive
from vineyard to vineyard; there are scenic vistas and you’re in the heart of
farm country. Of note the views at Hahn and
Paraiso are the best and take into
account the vines in front of you, the Salinas Valley, and the Gabilan mountain
range in the distance. These tasting room hours tend to be more weekend
oriented and are working wineries, so check in advance. River Road cuts through
the Santa Lucia Highlands and the preponderance here is Pinot Noir and
Chardonnay, though not exclusively. You’ll also find places like Wrath and Marilyn Remark offering Syrah and Rhone wines.
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| Hand harvesting Pinot Noir |
Carmel Village
has within its small geometric core, half a dozen tasting rooms including Caraccioli Cellars which is
located right downtown. Their focus is sparkling wine and they are one of the
few to make sparklers in the entire county. Their wines range in price from $20
to $57, and tasting fees start at $5 and head to $15. And Caraccioli is one of
the few places open later (Carmel is notorious for rolling up their sidewalks
early) so you can sample a sparkler made from Pinot Noir or Chardonnay before
or even after dinner and grab a small bite of popcorn, bruschetta or a cheese
plate. The great thing about downtown Carmel is you can walk to all the tasting
rooms, hit some shops, and find lunch and dinner all within close proximity.
The Carmel Valley
located inland from the seaside village, is awash with wineries and tasting
rooms numbering a dozen currently. “The
Row” a slice of seven tasting rooms in a long row is the sister to the
number of vineyard properties and stand alone tasting rooms which increasingly
populate the warmer valley region. Many of the white wines from this area have
a more noticeable acidity and minerality which I find best expressed in a new
winery called Silvestri, who make
wines ranging from $20 to $40, and with a mere 3,000 cases they embody
“boutique” ideals here. Their Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay deviate from the
standard offerings precisely because of a minimal use of oak and letting the
grapes retain their acidity. But Carmel Valley wines, including hearty reds
like Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and even Merlots which can be surprisingly
balanced, though somewhat lacking on the finish. Nonetheless the valley, which
first saw Cabernet planted in 1983, is capable of turning out very good though
wildly different iterations of these reds.
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| Sabrine Rodems of Wrath Wines |
Some of the most intriguing wines
however are coming from Sabrine Rodems of Wrath, and Ian Brand who makes wine
for Pierce Ranch, Coastview and his
own label. They are indicative of a no-holds-barred attitude of experimenting
with whole cluster fermentation, new grape varieties, and finding oddball
vineyards with massive potential. Another great discovery is Marin’s Vineyard based in the southern
part of Monterey County near Jolon.
Small unassuming and well priced, this 800 case winery is doing a remarkable
job with Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Viognier. Also located in the southern
end, but with a tasting room near Cannery Row, is Pierce Ranch who makes what are called Iberian varieties; Albariño,
Touriga even a wonderful classic California
Zinfandel. And don’t be surprised on your travels if you see falcons or
owls above the vineyards. These incredible birds are employed to keep other
birds from eating grapes off the vines.
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| Louise is a Eursian Owl |
And of course wine needs food: some of my personal favorites
include Manduka and Grasing’s in Carmel, Passion Fish in Pacific Grove, and the Sardine Factory, The Duck Club Grill,
and Restaurant 1833 all in downtown
Monterey. Regardless of where exactly you spend your time, you’ll find a vast
selection of diverse wines. So always drink local and always try something new;
you’ll see Monterey Country in a whole new light. And when you do, post a
comment on this blog and let us know what you like and don’t like!
And be sure
to check out my 2 Minute Travel
video shot at Hahn Winery:
Plan Your Trip
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