Butterflies ARE Free: Monarch’s of the Central Coast

Butterflies: the wallflower of the insect world - I mean, who really notices these little floating soundless works of art? But these beautiful little creatures undergo one of the most amazing transformations from caterpillar to butterfly, something that I witness every year with the butterflies in my back yard. The Central Coast is home to three Monarch Butterfly Preserves where you can get up close, and somewhat personal with these beauties. And if you know little about them, I use this case study from my own yard in Santa Barbara, where my wife and I have specifically cultivated butterflies by planting milkweed. Eggs hatch on the milkweed plants, and the caterpillars consume, actually nearly decimate, the milkweed plant for food, all leaves and even stems. When ready the caterpillars find a place to spin their cocoon, and then form into butterflies, then return to lay eggs on the milkweed plant. It’s a cool cycle you can make happen in your yard.

In 2014 I noticed that after monitoring the caterpillars, one had decided to spin its cocoon on the doorjamb of the doorway into my garage. What astounded me was the trek this little guy made. From the milkweed plant it is 18-feet and 4-inches across my erratic, pot-holed lawn. From there he needed to climb up a 5-inch concrete rise to get to the top of the flagstone deck. Crossing the flagstone is another 9-feet and 3-inches to get to the garage door. Then he climbs straight up the door 8-feet, moves over 1-foot to settle comfortable (we hope) in the dead center of the top of the doorjamb. If you tally that up, it’s a total of 37 feet - a hell of a journey. What possess them I have no idea. Certainly some make their cocoon closer than this, but this is a reminder that nature offers a spectacular lesson if we choose to notice the small things. With a typical lifespan of a paltry 2 to 6 weeks (some live 6 months) when you see them, remind yourself of the singular beauty of life, the intense but short life stages they go through, and that the will to survive is strong. So wing on over to one of these Central Coast spots to take a closer look and be astonished by the world around you.

There he is! Smack dab in the middle of the garage door!

San Luis Obispo:

The largest butterfly preserve on the Central Coast is the Pismo Beach Butterfly Grove (Highway 1 just south of North Pismo State Beach Campground, 805/473-7220), which sees the return of butterflies each November through February when tens of thousands of Monarch’s migrate to this small grove of eucalyptus trees near the beach to mate. On average there are about 30,000 of these silent winged creatures and the trees are often transformed into brilliant shades of orange after their 2,000 mile journey to get here. Docents staff the area and give brief but fascinating talks about the butterflies and their very unique but short lives. It’s free to walk into the grove, free to hear the docents and there’s a short boardwalk that leads to the beach near a large picnic area where you hit the low sand dunes and cypress trees near the waters edge. Parking is along the side of the road so use caution when crossing as this is a busy street. Monarchbutterfly.org

This beauty just came out in my backyard

Santa Barbara:

Monarchs are usually found in Goleta from mid-November through mid-February and docents are available on weekends from 11a.m. to 2 p.m. during these months. This is the smallest of the three groves and is available for viewing every day during daylight hours and it’s free. The Goleta Butterfly Grove (Ellwood Main) is in the Sperling Preserve on the Ellwood Mesa in Goleta, just north of downtown Santa Barbara. Free parking is available. Goleta Butterfly

The grove in Pacific Grove, near Monterey

Monterey:

The Pacific Grove Monarch Preserve (1073 Ridge Rd., Pacific Grove) is located behind a salmon-colored butterfly-themed motel. There are, on average, about 10,000 butterflies that come here yearly, and why not, Pacific Grove is stunningly beautiful! The best time to view these silent creatures is October through March. There’s usually a docent on hand to answer questions and explain about the short life of these amazing creatures. There is a free street parking nearby and the grove is free to enter. Pacific Grove Butterfly

Also from my backyard. Absolutely stunning!

Carving Up the Sacred Cow: Jocko's in Nipomo

(Editor's Note: Jocko's was contacted on four separate occasions as to correct pricing, seasonings and recipes - they elected to not respond)
To say that Jocko’s restaurant in Nipomo is iconic is an understatement. The place has been grilling up meat over oak since the late 1920s and has become something of a pilgrimage for carnivores. So as a restaurant reviewer for eight years now it was inevitable I should find out for myself why throngs of people seem utterly devoted to this out of the way spot.

The place is utterly lacking in any kind of décor, but that’s part of its charm, according to some. Painted cinder block walls hold up a low wood roof over what amounts to cheap banquet chairs, worn carpet and faded pictures on the walls. It looks like a dive restaurant, and partly that’s OK, not everything needs to be spit polished and accented with design tips from Pier One. But don’t put on your Sunday best to come here.

Dinners get crowded and as early as 4:30 p.m. lines start forming on weekends and you’re in for a wait, even if you make reservations. Lunches are less crowded, but it’s important to know that the oak grill, what the place is actually known for, is not fired up during the day, just evenings.

Dinners are a slow parade of foods beginning with packaged soda crackers and salsa which is pleasant enough, a bit watery though with a minimal heat. Then there is the crudités plate with pickles, black olives, and peppers. Next your salad arrives, nothing more than basic iceberg lettuce with a few carrot shavings and a sliced beet on top for good measure, or perhaps because they had them sitting around, it’s hard to tell. All salad dressings are made on site including their ranch which is average in terms of flavor, as is their blue cheese dressing which is more thin and watery. The honey mustard dressing has a slight heat to it but is more sweet than tart. It’s important to understand that dinners will always take time due in part to the crowds and in part to the grilling. Our meal took 45 minutes from the time the order was turned in to when it arrived, so be prepared to wait…and wait. Dinners include baked beans (minimal brown spice and a slight molasses richness but lean towards soft), tedious garlic bread lacking much actual garlic, and some form of potato - baked, French Fries, mashed - or rice. We opted for the baker with butter, sour cream and chives - a standard baked potato, nothing more -, and the unremarkable white rice. The Small Spencer Steak ($22) is frankly quite large and is one of their signature cuts. The Spencer is minimally seasoned and definitely has a rich smokiness from the oak. The meat is reasonably tender, but that’s as far as it goes, meaning there’s little that’s memorable about it other than the ubiquitous oak smoke which covers anything that has touched the grill. The Sweetbreads ($17) are lightly breaded and tender certainly with the smoke infiltrating the meats, but are more devoid of any specific flavor. Dinners include dessert, which is no more than a scoop of ice cream, Rainbow sherbet, spumoni, or vanilla, and a cup of coffee. With the abundance of food most people walk away with a container of something and that is the success of Jocko’s – way too much food. We wish it was way too much terrific food, but that’s not the case.

 
Lunches include beans and salad just like dinner, but it’s much less crowded and in the light of day the place looks older and more tired. The Grilled Chicken Sandwich ($9) is a large, moist half breast with tomato, sliced red onion, and iceberg lettuce on grilled sourdough bread and is as fundamental a sandwich as you can get. The seasoning on the chicken is fine, but since it’s not oak grilled it lacks the nuances that dinner items possess. There is also the Ruben ($8.50) made with corned beef, cheese and sauerkraut on grilled sourdough. The flavors here are muted and unimpressive, the whole being fairly elementary. Yes the corned beef is appropriately tender and the sauerkraut slightly crisp and sweet, but that’s all. Overall that seems to be the point at Jocko’s – average is exactly what they aim for – and they succeed. Yes you’ll get bang for your buck, yes, you’ll be full. The service is a notch below average however, friendly but unfocused, scattered, uneven and rushed. Ultimately the seasonings and flavors of the meats and the entire experience doesn’t live up to the hype. Along the Central Coast, from Santa Barbara to Monterey there are a number of very good steak houses, but Jocko’s isn’t one of them. Frankly most of us can grill a better steak at home and ultimately, that’s where I’d prefer to be over the tedium of Jocko’s.

Where to Stay in Monterey! Three Unique Properties You’ve Never Considered

The grounds at the Old Monterey Inn

The Monterey Peninsula attracts millions of visitors every year. But most people never fully flesh out their experiences by staying in a lodging that is as unique to Monterey as all the other reasons people come here. To many travelers, a hotel or motel is the least of their considerations, but staying at the right place, one which is indicative of exactly where you are, can enhance your entire trip. These three properties; in Monterey, Pacific Grove and Carmel, will get you grounded in the local while making your stay in Monterey memorable.

Monterey

The Old Monterey Inn is set on an acre and a quarter is the only English Tudor B&B in Monterey. The lush gardens have a European sensibility with proper hedges, mature trees and thick vines clinging to the entrance of this beautiful Tudor property. It's fitting I stayed in the library room (I’m a writer, so…ya know) and this was the home of the first mayor of Monterey, built in 1929. Local wines and cheese are put out every afternoon, and there's always tawny port in the parlor (we like this idea).

The formal dining room at the Old Monterey Inn

A refrigerator holds free water and juices and breakfast is served at 9 a.m. in the communal formal dining room (I love this room), or in the garden when the weather is nice, or in your room if you want privacy. Even though this is a small oasis you're an easy 12-minute walk from downtown Monterey. Since The Inn was built as an actual residence and not a replicated lodging, you get a great continuation of history with coffered ceilings, spacious rooms and detailed hand carved woodwork – all the while knowing than families lived here for decades. The mayor's wife traveled extensively in Europe hence the English Tudor feel and this is a delightful spot, perfect for a romantic getaway. The rooms are large with comfortable beds, hot tubs and carpeting throughout which adds to the quiet atmosphere. Choose from over 100 DVDs to watch in your room as you lounge in a large Jacuzzi tub. (800/350-2344 - OLD MONTEREY INN

Pacific Grove

The Martine Inn is certainly the most eclectic lodging you'll find on the entire Peninsula. There are 5 vintage MGs on the property, courtesy of Don Martine an avid collector, restorer of old cars, and racing fanatic, not to mention super nice guy and a wealth of Monterey history. The interior courtyard contains a pool table, ping pong, board games, real wood burning fireplaces (an increasing rarity on the peninsula). Originally this was the 3-story Victorian home of a wealthy pharmaceutical owner who seemed to need to keep changing the property to suit their tastes and keep up with the latest design trends. The façade keep being reinvented, but now it’s unique looking precisely because it’s so undefinable. Scheduled for demolition Don Martine bought it in 1972 and today it's fun, funky and every room is different with a collection of wood antiques ranging rom English to Asian to Deco. 

The exterior of the Martine Inn

Breakfast is served from 8 to 10 in the mornings and you’re directly facing the Monterey Bay from the second story - the proper way to enjoy coffee and breakfast. Wine and snacks come out in the evenings. The property was walled-in during the 1920s when that was the design fad so there’s a lot of seclusion. The interior courtyard was once home to three koi ponds when the original owners visited Japan and wanted to relive that experience. When one of their kids almost drowned they removed two of the three ponds (why not all three, you ask? No one knows) but you can still enjoy part of the orient, as well as a variety of eras in this smorgasbord B&B. It’s located across the street from the ocean and the extensive walking path which runs the length of the south part of the Bay, so you have incredible access to the ocean, and it’s a only a few blocks to downtown Pacific Grove. (800/852-5588 - MARTINE INN)

Buddha watches at Tradewinds

Carmel

Tradewinds Carmel is a pet-friendly spot, unlike anything else in Carmel, or Monterey for that matter. Featured in Architectural Digest, the 28 rooms, most of which have fireplaces and ocean views, have a unique fusion of Asian, Balinese and tropical design. Since uch of Carmel is cute Hansel & Gretel style, Tradewinds stands out as atypical. The original owner lived in Japan hence the Asian theme. Now his daughter continues the theme with beautifully appointed Asian inspired décor including Egyptian cotton linens, down pillows and featherbeds, orchids in every room and instead of standard white cotton robes, you have kimono robes. A continental breakfast is served 8 to 10 a.m. every morning including fresh fruit, yogurt and pastries which you can have served in either your room or in the dining area known as the Catlin Room. 

Tradewinds has three parking lots, so you car isn’t left on the street (common for space-squeezed Carmel) and you have quick access to it. Water features around the property include Buddha, ferns, waterfalls and reeds, creating a small oasis, and the evenings light up with the fire pit and tiki torches. You're very close to the middle of Carmel, easy to walk to restaurants and a few wine tasting rooms. Tradewinds has a tranquil feel which will keep you grounded. (831/624-2776 - TRADEWINDS)

While you plan your visit: consider these other posts:

MONTEREY'S MISSIONS

MERLOT IN MONTEREY: WINES OF MONTEREY COUNTY

Room for Tasting: The Coolest New Wine Tasting Rooms in California

Tasting wine is as much about the wine as it is the place you taste it in. Got great wine in your glass but a self-indulgent server, and who cares? Sampling Sauvignon Blanc in a run down hut might seem cool, but the ambience wears thin. But great wines in a great setting equals a memorable time. These new tasting rooms in each of the main California wine country destinations combine killer juice with a unique vibe; memorable wines with a visceral appeal. (NOTE: this is an expanded version of an article originally published in The Hollywood Reporter)

Santa Barbara: Riverbench Winery

Just a block from the Pacific Ocean, Riverbench’s tasting room, located in Santa Barbara’s downtown trendy Funk Zone, is best known for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. But they are also one of the few who make sparkling wine in the area and they offer flights of bubbly, and occasionally Riesling. The brown-shaded tasting room has an entire wall made from the wood of the historic San Ramon Chapel in the Santa Maria Valley built in 1908 (and near to their original tasting room). The wood wall seamlessly blends into the leather benches, giving the feel of rustic chic, with pops of color from accent pillows –it’s a rural setting with sophisticated juice.

Nearby: Head to the Mediterranean influenced restaurant Cadiz for immensely flavorful tapas while you wile the hours away on State St.

Paso Robles: Paso Robles Underground

Though it’s not actually located underground, this hip and funky converted garage co-op is about being under the radar. The four boutique wineries here craft small lots, less than 500 cases each, made by dudes working at Four Vines, Halter Ranch and L’Aventure, located near the Norman Rockwell-ish downtown park. Considered “the next Napa” by uber critic Robert Parker, Paso is best defined by the lush, ripe wines shown here from tiny wineries like Aaron, Edmund August, Clos Solene, and Turtle Rock Vineyards. The space itself feels more college dorm décor, hastily placed curtains and wood planks atop wine barrels, nothing we haven’t seen before. But the minuscule production of these four terrific wineries is why you’re here. You’ll find a predominance of Rhone whites and reds along with Petite Sirah and a Sauvignon/Riesling blend.

Nearby: The steroid and architecture combination known as the Hearst Castle is a mere 30 minutes away at the coast

Napa: Amici Cellars

Located in Calistoga Amici is not a new player but for years they had no tasting room. Winemaker Joel Aiken was with BV for 27 years making Georges de LaTour private reserve, so it’s a safe bet he knows exactly what he’s doing with Cabernet. The yellow hued tasting room on the second floor of the winery seats just 6 to 8 people, keeping it intimate and comfortable, with French doors leading to a balcony for views of the rugged Mayacamas Mountain range. All wine tasting comes with a cheese platter, all the better to go with their heady, intense and sought after Cabernet Sauvignons. To further insure intimacy, Amici is not easy to find - there isn’t a winery sign on the road, you have to know where it is (wink, wink).  Nearby: The coolest art gallery in the area is at The Hess Collection.

Sonoma: Ram's Gate

Most wineries seem to think crowded tasting rooms replete with forgettable local art is what people crave. But at Ram's Gate you feel like you're visiting a friend's weekend house in wine country, albeit designed by an interior designer who has worked with Mandarin Oriental group. You can choose from a variety of areas in which to taste the wines: the pavilion with a view of the pond, on either side of the double-sided outdoor fireplace, inside at the bar, in the library or even at the chef's table and there are various wine and food pairing options. The 30 foot ceilings, exposed beams, weathered wooden walls made of reclaimed snow-fencing from Wyoming, and massive floor-to-ceiling glass walls that open to sweeping vineyard views are in concert with their Pinot Noirs, Chardonnay and quite excellent Syrah – expansive and remarkable. This is not sport tasting, this is a multi-hour experience.

Nearby: You’ll love the Sonoma/Marin Cheese Trail sampling the area’s artisan cheeses.

Monterey: Talbott

Talbott Winery has long been one of the go-to Monterey producers for excessively good Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. When owner Robb Talbott opened up a new Carmel Valley tasting room in May he combined two other of his passions: motorcycles and vintage peddle cars. You read that right…peddle cars, as in those tinny things your grandfather peddled round in when he lived in the Old Country. With a stellar collection of motorcycles and peddle cars from France, the U.S. and Germany, the sleek, polished wood toned room is imbued with the wow factor the moment you enter. The wines too are made to wow and Talbott’s Pinots and Chards reign as some of the best; seamless and beautifully seductive in this region known for top quality Pinot and Chard. Therefore to have both is exceptional and an experience you will remember.

Nearby: 17 Mile Drive and the Monterey Bay Aquarium offer diverse experiences.

Sierra Foothills: Andis

The Sierra Foothills, known as gold country due to the 1848 gold discovery, brought the world to California. These days the gold has dissipated but wine has exploded. Grapes have been grown here since the early 1850s and the oldest commercial winery still stands in Coloma. The Andis tasting room puts that old stone building to shame. Sleek, clean lines and a soft color palette like a pastel Italian spot overlooking Lake Como, this pulls you out of history and places you squarely in the 21^st Century. Andis is at the forefront of a resurgence of the region, proving that a gold rush comes in many forms. The flagship Barbera and a racy Semillon are just part of a vast portfolio. Located in the small town of Plymouth just 10 miles from the perennially cute gold mining town of Sutter Creek, Andis is why you need to visit the Foothills.

Nearby: Head to the regions only dining destination, Taste in Plymouth. Visit historic Coloma where gold was discovered on the banks of the American River in 1948, setting off a worldwide stampeded to California.

Mendocino: Phillips Hill

Phillips Hill in the Anderson Valley integrates history and the cool factor with their all-wood open air tasting room, an antique apple dryer building. Come again? Apples and hops were the main draw in this Valley back in the day, not wine grapes. Being so remote the apple crop needed to be dried prior to interminable shipping to parts unknown. Now, no one dries out at Phillips Hill in their upstairs apple dryer tasting room. It’s mainly Pinot Noir here and a crisp little Gewürztraminer served in this tree-house wine pad. Surrounded by old, verdant green trees, you might lose a sense of time here, everyone else does. That’s the beauty of Phillips Hill - small, remote and still undiscovered.

Nearby: The nation’s first certified organic brew pub, The Ukiah Brewing Co. in Ukiah will give your wine palate a break with beer and grass fed beef.

For other alcohol and booze related info including reviews of wine, spirits and beers, visit my other blog BOOZEHOUNDZ

Murder at the Mission: The Haunting at San Miguel

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When Mission San Miguel was founded on July 25, 1797 just north of Paso Robles, the founding fathers could never have imagined the terror that would occur at this sacred site just 49 years later. The scene of a horrific murder, many people believe this mission is haunted. We may not know about ghosts, but here’s what we do know about that cold December night. The original temporary church built in 1797 burned in 1806, and a stone foundation church was completed in 1821. After Mexico fought against and won their independence from Spain, the Mission system began to collapse and by 1834 the Mission had become secularized. On July 4, 1846, Petronillo Rios and his business partner William Reed purchased the floundering mission for a few hundred dollars, operating it as a lodging and trading post and Reed and his family lived there. Reed, usually wearing a blue peacoat, required that guests pay in gold, and he bragged that he’d amassed a small fortune, hiding it somewhere at the mission. Remember that California was not part of the U.S. at this time and any currencies from Mexico, the U.S., and even money from Spain were probably considered worthless. Gold was what mattered.

On the afternoon of December 4th, 1848, six men arrived at Mission San Miguel. Pete Raymond, Joseph Lynch, Peter Remer, Peter Quin, and Sam Bernard, accompanied by someone only known as “John,” an Indian from Soledad. They stayed that night but left the next morning heading south to San Marcos Creek just a few miles down the road but then they returned to the mission and spent the rest of the day and part of the evening there on December 5^th. It was during these early evening hours that this gang of cold-hearted men murdered everyone at the Mission including William Reed and his wife, Maria who was expecting a baby, and their 4-year old son. Also killed was Josefa Olivera, Maria’s mid-wife, and 3 other children; 11 people in total. The men had been warming themselves near a fire when Bernard offered to go outside to get firewood. He returned with an axe hidden in his armload of wood and struck Reed several times while John the Indian stabbed him with a knife. Sam Bernard and the others stalked and killed the women and children, then took the bodies to the carpenter's shop. When their blood-drenched bodies were were found they were still wearing daytime clothes.

Based on the interrogations of Joseph Lynch, Peter Quin and of Peter Remer, this is what happened that cold December night. After the ruthless murders they drank wine stealing any valuables they could find, which wasn’t much, ransacking the place in search of Reed’s gold – but they never found any. They left the mission that evening and spent the rest of the night south of present-day Templeton, and spent the next night south of Mission San Luis Obispo, but by this time a posse had been formed and was tracking them. What they didn’t know was that on the very night of the killings, a man named James Beckwourth was carrying mail from Nipomo to Monterey when he stopped at the mission and discovered the bodies. Shocked, he rode on to Monterey and informed the military governor of the murders. The gang left San Luis Obispo and traveled down to the Los Alamos area and obtained, we presume, fresh horses at a ranch. They rode through Santa Barbara stopping at Rancho Ortega, at present day Summerland, where the posse caught up with them, but this was not to be a bloodless arrest. Sam Bernard was mortally wounded. Pete Raymond jumped into the surf attempting to escape, and was drowned. Peter Quin was wounded and captured having killed a member of the posse; Joseph Lynch and Peter Remer were also captured, and later confessed to their parts in the murders. John the Indian had peeled off from the group around San Luis Obispo and was never found. 

The chapel interior

Reed’s partner Petronilo Rios, helped bury Reed and the other victims in the cemetery of Mission San Miguel, “just outside the rear door of the sacristy; a little to the southwest and near the old first church wall,” according to one account. All 11 people were buried in one mass grave and it must have been a disturbing sight seeing the bodies of the children.

Lieutenant Edward O. C. Ord (Fort Ord in Monterey was named after him) from Monterey and nine soldiers were dispatched to Santa Barbara to act as a firing squad.

According to accounts Joseph Lynch, Peter Remer and Peter Quin were executed by firing squad in Santa Barbara on December 28, 1848, near the corner of De la Guerra and Chapala Streets. Reports said they were buried in the cemetery of Mission Santa Barbara, but that seems highly unlikely that they would have been buried there considering the murderous acts they had committed at Mission San Miguel. At any rate, following the murders Mission San Miguel converted rooms into a hotel, saloon, and retail shops. Over the years many people have claimed they have seen the ghosts of William Reed, wearing his peacoat and a lady in a white dress around the mission grounds. 

Some swear they have heard muffled screams coming from near the chapel, and images of the young boys who were killed that night. Are ghosts real? And do the tortured souls of innocent victims attempt to make contact with the present world? Is the gold still there, or was it ever there? Does William Reed and his wife, Maria call out from their graves? That’s for you to decide. Perhaps when you visit Mission San Miguel you might find the answers.

Watch my “2 Minute Travel” video shot at Mission San Miguel at midnight: GHOSTS OF THE COAST

 

Merlot in Monterey & Cabernet in Carmel? The Wines of Monterey County

People come to Monterey and Carmel to absorb the beautiful rugged coastline, visit Cannery Row, and the Monterey Bay Aquarium, but the wine culture here is thriving. Though the county is best known for the Santa Lucia Highlands, where high-end Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are being made, there is an incredible diversity of wine being produced here from Zinfandel to Albariño. So if you’re the adventurous type you’re in luck. I recently spent a week in Monterey Country immersing myself in the wide breadth of the wines.

This is merely an overview of what you can expect.

The first commercial grapes were Chenin Blanc planted in Chalone in 1919 and they are still there. Chalone Vineyards makes Chenin Blanc from these very vines. In the early 1920s Chardonnay was planted, but like everywhere else in the country, Prohibition pretty much halted the growth of the wine industry. It wasn’t until the mid 1980s that serious plantings began to emerge. The main tasting areas are:

The original Chenin Blanc vineyard from 1919, lower center

River Road in the Santa Lucia Highlands is that quintessential vineyard experience: you drive from vineyard to vineyard; there are scenic vistas and you’re in the heart of farm country. Of note the views at Hahn and Paraiso are the best and take into account the vines in front of you, the Salinas Valley, and the Gabilan mountain range in the distance. These tasting room hours tend to be more weekend oriented and are working wineries, so check in advance. River Road cuts through the Santa Lucia Highlands and the preponderance here is Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, though not exclusively. You’ll also find places like Wrath and Marilyn Remark offering Syrah and Rhone wines.

Hand harvesting Pinot Noir

Carmel Village has within its small geometric core, half a dozen tasting rooms including Caraccioli Cellars which is located right downtown. Their focus is sparkling wine and they are one of the few to make sparklers in the entire county. Their wines range in price from $20 to $57, and tasting fees start at $5 and head to $15. And Caraccioli is one of the few places open later (Carmel is notorious for rolling up their sidewalks early) so you can sample a sparkler made from Pinot Noir or Chardonnay before or even after dinner and grab a small bite of popcorn, bruschetta or a cheese plate. The great thing about downtown Carmel is you can walk to all the tasting rooms, hit some shops, and find lunch and dinner all within close proximity.

The Carmel Valley located inland from the seaside village, is awash with wineries and tasting rooms numbering a dozen currently. “The Row” a slice of seven tasting rooms in a long row is the sister to the number of vineyard properties and stand alone tasting rooms which increasingly populate the warmer valley region. Many of the white wines from this area have a more noticeable acidity and minerality which I find best expressed in a new winery called Silvestri, who make wines ranging from $20 to $40, and with a mere 3,000 cases they embody “boutique” ideals here. Their Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay deviate from the standard offerings precisely because of a minimal use of oak and letting the grapes retain their acidity. But Carmel Valley wines, including hearty reds like Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and even Merlots which can be surprisingly balanced, though somewhat lacking on the finish. Nonetheless the valley, which first saw Cabernet planted in 1983, is capable of turning out very good though wildly different iterations of these reds.

Sabrine Rodems of Wrath Wines

Some of the most intriguing wines however are coming from Sabrine Rodems of Wrath, and Ian Brand who makes wine for Pierce Ranch, Coastview and his own label. They are indicative of a no-holds-barred attitude of experimenting with whole cluster fermentation, new grape varieties, and finding oddball vineyards with massive potential. Another great discovery is Marin’s Vineyard based in the southern part of Monterey County near Jolon. Small unassuming and well priced, this 800 case winery is doing a remarkable job with Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Viognier. Also located in the southern end, but with a tasting room near Cannery Row, is Pierce Ranch who makes what are called Iberian varieties; Albariño, Touriga even a wonderful classic California Zinfandel. And don’t be surprised on your travels if you see falcons or owls above the vineyards. These incredible birds are employed to keep other birds from eating grapes off the vines.

Louise is a Eursian Owl

And of course wine needs food: some of my personal favorites include Manduka and Grasing’s in Carmel, Passion Fish in Pacific Grove, and the Sardine Factory, The Duck Club Grill, and Restaurant 1833 all in downtown Monterey. Regardless of where exactly you spend your time, you’ll find a vast selection of diverse wines. So always drink local and always try something new; you’ll see Monterey Country in a whole new light. And when you do, post a comment on this blog and let us know what you like and don’t like! 

And be sure to check out my 2 Minute Travel video shot at Hahn Winery:

 Monterey County Wine Country Overview

Plan Your Trip

Monterey Wine Country

Monterey County

California’s Historic Wineries: Time in a Bottle



Old wine in old bottles

Wine has been in California since 1779, thanks to the Spanish who brought it up from Mexico and planted it at Mission San Gabriel in Southern California. The rest is, as they say, history. Here then are both historic winery buildings, as well as wineries that produce wines from historic vineyards. Yes, you can taste history.

Northern California

Gold has always been integral to the fabric of the Sierra Foothills (El Dorado, Amador and Calaveras counties) and people still flock to Gold Country in search of new discoveries. The main one these days is wine. With the massive influx of people searching for gold in 1849, enterprising men and woman planted vineyards to make wine to sell to the miners. In many instances formerly drinkable water from local rivers became so heavily polluted by mining that cheap wine was preferred, and safer. California’s gold rush faded by 1855 and the throngs of people moved to the larger city of San Francisco. That move caused the demise of the Sierra Foothills wine region, where there were hundreds of wineries. The mass exodus however spawned the growth of another wine region…Napa.



The old walls of the Coloma Winery still stand

One of the first commercial wineries in the entire state, the remains of it, still stands today not far from where gold was discovered in Coloma, north of Placerville. The Coloma Winery was built in 1852, believed to be the very first commercial winery in California. It’s known that the first vintage of their wine, made by Martin Allhoff, was in 1858 which was distributed throughout the region and western Nevada. Sobon Estate is on the site of the first commercial winery in Amador County, dating to 1856, and the original winery, though not functioning, can be toured and it’s free. The old cellars are heavy with must and age, but it’s very cool. (http://www.sobonwine.com/) Just down the road, Deaver Winery in the Shenandoah Valley still has original Mission vines from the late 1800s and they make a port with it. (http://www.deavervineyard.com/). Scott Harvey Winery makes a zinfandel called “1869” from a vineyard planted in, well, 1869, also from Amador County. In Napa, the Charles Krug Winery was built in 1860 (the Mondavi family has owned it since the 1940s).

The Redwood Cellar at Charles Krug

 The original redwood cellar was recently restored to its stunning glory and it’s a state historic landmark. Robert Mondavi (Peter Mondavi’s brother) still presides over the wines at age 97. (http://www.charleskrug.com/)  





Southern California

Grapes were grown throughout the California Mission chain as sacramental wine, but also to produce raisins – easily portable food sold to travelers. The “Mission” grape, a hybrid of different grapes, was high in sugar, low in acid, and produced a thin rustic wine which by most accounts was pretty bad, even though wine and brandy production was a significant source of income for some of the Missions. Mission Santa Barbara established a vineyard and winery between 1824 and 1834. About 1820 San Antonio winery was built in what is now Goleta, just north of the City of Santa Barbara for use as sacramental wine. The lonely historic adobe winery is still standing nearly 200 years later, though on private land. I had the good fortune to visit and see the old barrels and winemaking equipment. 

Santa Cruz Winery - in its heyday

In Santa Barbara in the late 1890s about 200 acres of grapes were planted on Santa Cruz Island, just off the Santa Barbara coast, the remnants still standing on the interior of the island. And while you’re in Santa Barbara, if you drive on De La Vina Street,
well, it used to be covered with vines.

Saucelito Canyon Winery in the Edna Valley in San Luis Obispo County was so remote, when they originally planted vines in 1880, the Feds trying to find it during Prohibition, couldn’t. Good thing too. Great zinfandels come from these true old vines and if you ever get a chance to visit the original homestead (it’s not open to the public but their tasting room is) go! Their “1880” zinfandel is made from grapes grown on original rootstock. It’s a magical place – and it’s where I asked my wife to marry me.



Saucelito Canyon Zinfandel vines on their 1880s rootstock

Gypsy Canyon Winery off Highway 246 near Lompoc has original Mission grapes on site too, and they produce Angelica, a sweet wine made from brandy and Mission grapes from an 1860’s recipe. (http://www.gypsycanyon.com/). In 1919 the first known grapes went into the ground in Monterey County, a remote place called Chalone, where the Chenin Blanc still produces fruit! And around the same time, commercial vineyards were planted in Paso Robles.

Grapevines can be amazingly hardy. (While I was in Spain in 2010, I visited a fat old vine still producing grapes which is 140 years old). So visit some of California’s historic wineries, sip history and be part of that continuum.

Santa Barbara Mission with grapevines (now gone) in front

For more information about California's wine and wineries, take a look at my books, Santa Barbara & The Central Coast, and California Wine Country. 
http://www.amazon.com/Michael-Cervin/e/B004APYU4S

Summer at the California Central Coast: Get Your Tan On!

Kayaking in Ventura Harbor

Say summer and you automatically think about being outside. Who stays indoors except for cranky people and vampires? The California Central Coast is prime outdoor territory for summer fun as this stretch of coastline from Ventura to Monterey is ripe with plenty to do. From tide-pooling, surfing, hiking and biking, to a romantic stroll as the Pacific tickles your feet, here are some suggestions to get out, get some sun and uncover the coast!

My wife over looking Potato Harbor on Santa Cruz Island

Perhaps the best playground for outdoor fun is to visit the Channel Islands National Park (www.nps.gov/chis/). These islands, just off the coast of Santa Barbara, are great day trips and get you back to pristine California as it was hundreds of years ago. Santa Cruz, Anacapa and Santa Rosa islands are best accessed from Ventura Harbor. All three islands have indigenous plants and animals, such as and the smallest fox you’ve ever seen, the Channel Islands Fox, and over 140 other species found no where else on earth. You can camp overnight, or spend a day or half-day roaming the place on moderate hikes with a trained naturalist. Island Packers is the official concessionaire and they do a great job of getting people to and from the islands. WATCH my 2 Minute Travel video shot on Santa Cruz Island here:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0jf7Va2jxbA&feature=plcp

Guided kayaking tours of the Channel Islands by folks like Blue Sky Wilderness (http://www.blueskywilderness.com/) gets you up close to the volcanic rock and sea caves on the islands, including Painted Cave, one of the largest sea caves in the world, located at Santa Cruz Island. Picnic on the island and explore parts few people have walked on. Though the waters are cooler, you can also snorkel off all three islands and immerse yourself near the kelp forests. You’ll spot the California State Fish, the Garibaldi, see sheepshead, and other cool sea life. Or if you dive, the islands are great spots to scuba. I usually dive around Anacapa and the backside of Santa Cruz. There are sea lions, dolphins, crabs and everything else under the sea. Use the Peace Boat (http://www.peaceboat.com/) my favorite dive boat, which departs from Ventura Harbor. They are professional and best of all, after a long day of diving you can warm up in their on-board hot tub while eating ice cream! Of course, you can always kayak within the confines of any of the harbors, like Ventura, Santa Barbara and Monterey for a more sedate experience.

The Channel Island Fox

Aside from the Channel Islands, here are other great Summer suggestions:

Biking:

The bike trails that hug the Central Coast are inspiring. The Waterfront in Santa Barbara is one of the best. You can rent a bike or surrey and leisurely follow the ocean down to the Andree Clark Bird Refuge, which passes the Santa Barbara Zoo, beach volleyball nets and languid palm trees. It’s flat, fun and you won’t break much of a sweat. In San Luis Obispo, the best spot for hiking, walking and biking is Montaña de Oro Park: 8,000 acres of coastal bluffs and coves to mountainous shrub-covered hills to lush valley’s of dense eucalyptus groves. It’s beautiful and truly a gem on the Central Coast. (http://www.slostateparks.com/montana_de_oro/default.asp).  

Beaching:

Carmel City Beach

The white sand beach at Carmel City Beach is immensely popular and within walking distance of downtown Carmel (www.Carmelcalifornia.com/). The views north are to Pebble Beach, and south you can see Point Lobos, another great hiking park. Walk, bring the dog and relax, then head back to Carmel for lunch, or wine tasting in Carmel Valley. Leadbetter Beach is one of the best beaches in Santa Barbara because it has a large grassy area with picnic tables, some shade, restroom facilities and outdoor grills. Plus you’re a short drive to State Street, Santa Barbara's main drag for shopping, outdoor dining and the SB vibe. Moonstone Beach in Cambria has long been popular due its more rugged coastline and handicap accessible boardwalk which runs the length of the low bluffs. There is also beach access, restaurants are close by, and restroom facilities are located at both ends of the beach. Plus you can find, yes, moonstones. You might also see otters.

Boating: 

My whale watching boat leaving Morro Bay

Whale watching in Santa Barbara, Ventura, and Morro Bay can be an awesome experience and these spots have reasonably good chances of getting pretty close to humpback and blue whales. There are numerous boats to take you around, either by sail, on a catamaran or on a traditional fishing boat. Having seen whales up close, it’s an experience you don’t want to miss. Of course, no one can promise you a whale sighting, but if nothing else, you’re floating on the Pacific, and that ain’t too bad!

Or, if you’re the more adventurous type, the Bella Monterey Bay (http://www.bellamontereybay.com/) is a great sailing boat which holds only 6 people and tours the bay and shoreline of Monterey. This is not for the faint of heart as this baby sails, which means it can get choppy on the open ocean and you will have to gingerly navigate your way around the vessel, depending on the wind, but you’ll have a blast.

Renting a surry along Santa Barbara's coastline

On Board Nautical in Morro Bay (http://www.onboardnauticalevents.com/) is for those who just need a relaxing ride on the water without spilling their cocktail. Chef-prepared foods and live entertainment on this classic 1960s yacht means you can kick back as you cruise inside Morro Bay gently and slowly, staying within the confines of the protected bay. For other great information about the Central Coast, check out all 4 of my travel books, in paperack and as a download on Kindle: http://www.amazon.com/Michael-Cervin/e/B004APYU4S